When Clothing Becomes a Weapon… Why Does Zelensky Refuse to Wear a Suit?

10th March 2025

2 minutes read

When Clothing Becomes a Weapon… Why Does Zelensky Refuse to Wear a Suit?

Amid the verbal exchange between former U.S. President Donald Trump and Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky, an American journalist caught Zelensky off guard with a comment about his attire.

“Why don’t you wear a suit?” asked Brian Glenn, a correspondent for the conservative network Real America’s Voice, prompting a sarcastic smile from J.D. Vance. “You hold the highest office in your country, yet you refuse to wear a suit.”

According to Politico, criticism of Zelensky for not wearing the traditional suit-and-tie combination overlooks a fundamental question: why does he dress this way?

In reality, the black tactical clothing he wears at the White House—such as his olive-green sweaters and military boots—are part of a growing visual shift in Ukraine, reflecting the impact of war on the fashion industry and the newfound centrality of the military in Ukrainian culture.

Ilya Ponomarenko, a Ukrainian journalist who has covered the war for Kyiv Post and Kyiv Independent and author of the book I Will Show You How It Was: The Story of Kyiv in Wartime, notes that “clothing is more than just attire. It is an integral part of the culture of those involved in this war.”

According to Ponomarenko, “Zelensky’s attire sends a subtle anti-elitist message. When he meets with prominent figures and power brokers, his clothing essentially asks: what are you doing? Are you focused on saving lives, or are you more concerned with lavish protocols? Even when meeting royalty, he dresses like an ordinary Ukrainian engaged in the war effort. His message is clear: ‘I have reached the halls of power as a representative of my humble people.’”

Ponomarenko highlights that 2014—the year Russia annexed Crimea—was a turning point for Ukraine, not only in terms of its trajectory but also in how people viewed military personnel. Before then, the average Ukrainian soldier was often ridiculed, and wearing military clothing was sometimes seen as an indicator of coming from a poor family with limited prospects. However, after 2014, the perception of the military improved, partly due to government-initiated reforms aimed at rebuilding the country’s defense infrastructure. Today, Ukraine’s military is one of the most trusted institutions in society, and military attire symbolizes something entirely different.

Zelensky favors clothing from Ukrainian brands like M-TAC, which produces garments that can be both practical and informal—similar to the body armor and combat jackets worn in war zones.

Regarding the “Ukrainian trident” emblem on his jacket, Ponomarenko explains that it is one of Ukraine’s primary national symbols and its official coat of arms. The emblem dates back over a thousand years to Prince Volodymyr the Great, who introduced Christianity to the Eastern Slavs. He is considered one of Kyiv’s greatest rulers and an ancestor of modern Ukraine. This was his personal insignia.

Ultimately, Zelensky represents a broad segment of Ukrainians actively engaged in the war and security efforts. When traveling abroad, it would neither be appropriate nor consistent for him to wear expensive suits.