The black truffle, star of mushrooms
When the forest dresses in its winter clothes, it is at its best! Only a trained dog or sow can detect its presence underground. The Tuber melanosporum or black Perigord truffle is believed to have appeared in Egypt several millennia ago. This fruit of a mushroom bereft of root has given rise to many legends. In Roman mythology, it was Jupiter who planted it by throwing lightning at the foot of an oak tree. He is then prized as an aphrodisiac.
The black diamond of gastronomy
During the Middle Ages, this strange mushroom was banished from the tables, its mysterious creation being attributed to Satan by the Church. It resurfaces in the 16th century, in the court of Francis I. At its peak in the 19th century, it was described as the “black diamond” of gastronomy by culinary author Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and of sancta sanctorum by writer Alexandre Dumas.
Cult recipes
The black truffle is present in the south of France, mainly in the Pétro. Its captivating scent inspired and still inspires many chefs’ creations, from the legendary Rossini tournedos to Bresse demi-mournil de la Mère Brazier’s poularde, to Paul Bocuse’s unmissable VGE soup (or ethereal soup), Alain Ducasse’s regressive ham-truffle or the addictive Rostang House sandwich.
Beware of imitations
If you want to treat yourself to this treasure, beware, it remains rare and therefore very expensive, around 1,000 euros per kilo. Derived products flourish on the shelves: foie gras, chips, mustards, salts… Often, brands have recourse to a simple aroma. To make the right choice, choose “truffled” or “truffle” foods and remember that the butters or cheeses that have impregnated themselves with the scent of the fresh mushroom have a short shelf life.
