Zelensky and the Missing Suit… A Battle between War and Diplomacy

25th March 2025

3 minutes read

Zelensky and the Missing Suit… A Battle between War and Diplomacy

In the world of politics, elegance and formal attire are an integral part of leaders’ protocols. However, in times of crisis, clothing can become a message in itself.

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky has chosen to embody his cause through his appearance. The last time he wore a suit was on February 24, 2022, when he released a video announcing martial law after Russia’s attack on his country.

Since then, he has appeared alongside world leaders wearing trousers, high boots, jackets, and military-style shirts in black, gray, or khaki, adorned with Ukrainian national symbols.

But can clothing choices be a diplomatic weapon? Can an outfit turn into a powerful political statement?

A Strong Fashion Statement

Elvira Gasanova, designer of the Damirli brand—now iconic for Zelensky’s style—told Politico: “When world leaders see the Ukrainian president in military attire, it’s a signal: ‘Ukraine is at war, and I am part of this fight.’”

She added in a Politico report : “The insistence on bringing him back to a formal suit is, in reality, an implicit demand to return to conventional political dialogue, which means ‘Enough war, let’s sit at the negotiating table.’”

An Outfit That Annoyed Trump

This outfit was one of the sources of tension during the disastrous meeting between Zelensky and former U.S. President Donald Trump at the White House last month.

While Trump sported an elegant suit and his signature red tie, Zelensky arrived in a simple outfit designed by Gasanova, prompting Trump to sarcastically comment, “You look very stylish!”

Things worsened in the Oval Office when right-wing journalist Brian Glenn asked Zelensky: “Why don’t you wear a suit? You hold the highest office in your country and insist on not wearing a suit. Do you even own one? Many Americans feel that you do not respect the dignity of your position.”

Zelensky sharply responded: “I will wear a suit when this war is over. Maybe one like yours, maybe a better one, or maybe a cheaper one.”

Clothing Diplomacy

Trump and his running mate, J.D. Vance, criticized Zelensky, accusing him of ingratitude and disrespect toward U.S. support.

Ukraine initially responded with shock, but its Ministry of Foreign Affairs launched a campaign featuring hundreds of Ukrainians—soldiers, police officers, and doctors—wearing military attire as a symbol of strength.

However, according to Politico, the message reached Zelensky’s team: avoid provoking Americans with clothing choices. In negotiations in Saudi Arabia this month, the head of the Ukrainian delegation, Andriy Yermak, wore a tailored suit instead of his usual military outfit.

Despite this, Zelensky remains determined to maintain his combat-ready appearance.

A Political Symbol

Fashion critic and historian Zoia Zviniatskivska told Politico: “Manipulating dress codes is an act of dominance. Trump is an authoritarian politician who seizes every opportunity to humiliate his opponent and assert his place in the hierarchy.”

She argues that Zelensky’s style “is a commitment he cannot abandon—it shows solidarity with Ukrainian civilians and the army fighting Russia.”

Ultimately, Gasanova states: “Refusing to wear a suit is a refusal to play by the old rules.”